A volcanic hill that comes to mind during the winter season.
Even when I contemplate exploring a new place, my heart always return to the same few Oreums on my list.
Once again, I found myself revisiting the beautifully named Bichimi Oreum.
Perhaps because I visit only once or twice a year, Bichimi Oreum feels new every time. A path left untamed, where few footsteps tread, preserving nature in its purest form. Following the traces of passing cattle, I carefully weaved my way through tangled vines and cedar trees toward the summit.
A path that always feels new — familiar yet unfamiliar.
Despite visiting annually, the route to the summit always feels unfamiliar. The entrance is unwelcoming, resulting in few visitors because of unclear trail markings. It is not an easy path for first-time hikers without a guide.
Following the narrow trail between the dense cedar forest, climbing straight up the slope instead of taking winding paths may leave you breathless even before reaching the peak. From the summit, familiar Oreums gradually come into sight in the distance. No matter how many times I've captured this landscape, it's almost instinctive to reach for my phone, once again enchanted by the view.
A sight too precious to keep to myself, yet one I wish to keep secret.
Anyone who loves Oreums would surely relate to this feeling.
On the way from Bichimi Oreum to Keundoremi Oreum, there is a hidden forest path. Although the summit of Bichimi Oreum is not as exposed to that of Ttarabi Oreum, it is still relatively open. Thus, the forest trail leading to Keundoremi Oreum feels like a hidden gem. I remember foraging for bracken in this very forest once.
A narrow path between dense trees, forming a tunnel-like passage reminiscent of the historic Jatseong Trail.As you walk through the quiet woods, you might feel as though you've stepped into another world.
Chihiro, Totoro, Princess Mononoke...
I once told my wife that this place felt like the setting of a Miyazaki animation. As fans of Miyazaki films, we instantly shared the same vision and understanding.
Keundoremi Oreum has a small peak, and from there, gazing back at Bichimi Oreum brings a new wave of emotions.
Looking back at the very place I stood just moments ago is one of the small joys of hiking these Oreums. Beside it stretches a vast grassland, and beyond that lies Min Oreum. One summer, I remember bringing a portable table, chair, and a laptop to this grassland, listening to music and relaxing.
Looking back, living in Jeju has gifted me with many special and fun memories
Despite visiting Bichimi Oreum multiple times, I have yet to climb Jageundoremi Oreum. Once, I had set out to find my way through the overgrowth, determined to reach the peak, but eventually had to turn back. Having lost my way, my clothes were tattered, and my skin bore scratches from forcing my way through the dense branches.
If you do not know the path, you must either respect the Oreum or embrace the hardship.
I may have given up that time, but I vow to one day stand at the summit of Jageundoremi Oreum.
As we quietly took in the scenery, one of my companions simply said:
"It's nice."
It`s nice~~ A short phrase without embellishment, yet filled with everything.
Unlike a mere "like" button on Instagram, this remark carried a deep sense of awe and resonance. Understanding its meaning, I nodded in silent agreement. The climb to Bichimi Oreum, the view from the top, the moments shared with others — all of it was captured in that single phrase.
Once, I hiked Bichimi Oreum, Keundoremi Oreum, and Gae Oreum in succession with a group of friends.
Among them was a foreign friend, and I remember us laughing for a while as we explained the name "Gae (Dog) Oreum." Just like the many fond memories tied to its name, it remains a beautiful and familiar Oreum.
Preserving the charms of Jeju Island
Descending from the Oreum, we stopped by Jongdal-ri to buy some grilled squid.
On the way, we passed by the unsettling banners of the Second Airport project, fluttering in the wind for over a decade.
For a while, Jeju's natural beauty fueled a wave of migration and tourism. Jeju, with its extraordinary natural assets, is something Koreans can be proud of. People admire and travel to places like Switzerland and Northern Europe, yet ironically, Jeju has taken the opposite path.
Over the past decade, reckless development has left many scars on the island.
I feel both regret and sorrow for Jeju.
And yet, despite these changes, certain seafront villages still hold onto their natural rhythms.
Squid swaying in the sea breeze, haenyeo (female divers) working along the shore — a scene that makes me feel grateful for what remains. Living simply within nature — there is something beautiful and humbling about it.
Bichimi Oreum. Always fresh, always beckoning me back.
Tomorrow or the day after, I may set out to explore another Oreum with a lovely name,
but I know I will eventually return to Bichimi Oreum, whether next year or sometime in the future.
A place I wish to keep to myself — Bichimi Oreum — Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter.
Even if it remains the same Oreum for one year or two, every moment spent there is special and different.